THE ISLAND
The landing on the island of Othoni is welcomed by a wide bay overlooking the village of Ammos and its beautiful sandy beach with shallow, crystal-clear waters—perfect for children or for sunbathing just a few steps from the village center.
Not to be missed is a dip at Aspri Ammos beach and an excursion to Calypso’s Cave, where it is said that the beautiful nymph enchanted and imprisoned Odysseus. You can reach it quickly, only by sea, since it is just one mile from the village.
On Mount Imerovigli, which towers over this stunning beach of brilliant white sand—accessible only by sea—local tales speak of gold veins still waiting for some daring adventurer to search for them.
The walk along the natural path that borders much of the island is magnificent. You may encounter astonishing sights: octopuses, starfish, and perfectly circular natural pools of crystal-clear water where you can take a refreshing dip.
Many small beaches and caves embellish the coastline, and in some of them the luckiest visitors can still spot Mediterranean monk seals. From the cliffs hanging over a crystalline sea with fish-rich seabeds, you can glimpse the remains of ships that, in ancient times, wrecked on the shallows during long trade voyages carrying grain, wine, and gold between the capitals of the Byzantine Empire and those of the Western Empire.
On the northeastern coast, it is worth visiting the ancient lighthouse built around 1500, and extending your walk about 200 meters further to the remains of a Venetian fortress called Kastrì. Below it, you’ll find flat, welcoming rocks perfect for a swim with a view of Albania.
The long pebble beach of Fiki is located on the northern coast, facing Albania. It can also be reached by land and still preserves an ancient dock that islanders use even today when the port of Ammos becomes unusable during bad weather—thus avoiding being cut off for weeks.
Here, snorkeling is worthwhile among the remains of ancient amphorae, some still intact but trapped among the rocks, in search of a large cargo shipwreck sunk on the nearby shallows.
A little further ahead, a beach of multicolored pebbles hosts the mouth of a stream on whose banks stands an old watermill called Neròmilos.
On the mainland, the walks along paths connecting the many villages to the main town of Horiò are beautiful and refreshed by the shade of centuries-old olive trees.
Of particular note is the historic path that climbs from the village of Ammos up to the school and reaches the large cross erected by the Othoniots after they succeeded in driving away the pirates who once infested their coasts and threatened the island’s peaceful life.
In recent times, many ancient paths have been reopened, and more will follow, making the island an ideal place for trekking.
Continuing the walk, you reach the Church of Panaghìa (the Madonna), which every year is celebrated by the islanders during mid-August together with many tourists and the Othoniots returning from the United States for their holidays.
Upon reaching the village of Horiò—a white village perched on one of the island’s highest points, shaded by majestic olive trees—you’ll be ready to enjoy the sunset from the splendid overlook of Iliovasìlema, from which, on the clearest days, you can see the Italian coast.
The more adventurous can climb to the highest point of the island, Mount Megàlo Merovìgli, from which you can command a view of the entire archipelago: the island of Corfu, Albania, the Strait of Otranto, and the northern Ionian islands of Paxos and Lefkada.
You will return intoxicated by this immersion in unspoiled nature, bringing with you—not only a wonderful feeling of well-being—fragrant bundles of countless aromatic herbs and baskets of wild berries that grow spontaneously throughout the island.
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